Known as “the jeweller to kings and the king of jewellers”, Cartier is a brand associated with royalty and prestige. Company founder, Louis-Francois Cartier, made watches and jewellery. The company’s first wristwatch was the Santos which remains in production today. Despite having a history that stretches back to 1847, Cartier has remained at the forefront of Haute Horlogerie.

Cartier, a renowned name in luxury wristwatches, stands out in the market due to its constant innovations and technical mastery. Collectors are drawn to Cartier not just for the allure of a well-established brand but also for its meticulous use of premium materials, making each timepiece an indulgent accessory. While Cartier initially focused on jewelry, their foray into watchmaking maintains the same opulent approach, mirroring the aesthetics of their jewelry lines. This makes Cartier watches highly coveted, especially as luxury dress watches. However, Cartier has also ventured into creating sporty chronographs, racing-inspired models, and pilot's watches, demonstrating their versatility.

One iconic Cartier timepiece, the Cartier Santos, was born from a request by pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont for a wrist-worn timekeeping tool. Others, like the Tank, have achieved near-cult status, rendering them incredibly desirable, particularly in the second-hand market. To determine which Cartier watches hold their value and are the most investible, one must first delve into the brand's popular watch lines. It's essential for potential investors to select a design that aligns with their personal taste, considering the likelihood of holding onto it for some time, as predicting which luxury watches will gain demand in the future is challenging.

The value retention of Cartier watches hinges on various factors. Consumer preferences, the rate of changing trends, rarity, availability, and functionality all play pivotal roles. Many Cartier watches have proven to be wise investments, appreciating in value over time. The brand's commitment to excellence is evident in the meticulous craftsmanship and premium materials used. Cartier's reputation precedes itself, making a profound statement when worn, and it boasts a legacy of generations employing family-run manufacturing techniques and closely guarded know-how.

At auctions, we have seen 2021 and 2022 raising the profile of the brand thanks to the Cartier Crash record auctions. In 2023 the brand strenght continue as Cartier retains is position as the second largest watch brand.

In general some Cartier timepieces command astronomical prices, particularly those crafted from gold or adorned with gemstones and diamonds. Bi-color models within Cartier's diverse sub-collections offer a blend of casual elegance and sophistication. The extensive range of Cartier timepieces appeals to a wide array of collectors, from classic watch enthusiasts and professionals to pilots, glamorous women, and those fascinated by the brand's storied history as an innovator in jewelry, pocket watches, and wristwatches.

The rectangular cult dress watch is probably the most collectible of Cartier watches. Inspired by First World War military tanks, admirers have both physical and emotional ties to the Cartier Tank. Not only does it suffice as a comfortable daily dress watch, but its retro-inspired aesthetic adds character and charm to a gentleman’s style. Vintage watch collectors are particularly enthusiastic about Cartier Tank watches. In 2023 there’s a choice of steel, rose gold, yellow gold, white gold and palladium models, as well as automatic and quartz versions.

Cartier has in addition added multiple variants on size proving a great variety of options.

With a wide selection of vintage pre-owned models available on the market, there’s lots of material and design choices. The most classic designs from the collection are the Tank Solo and the Tank Louis models.

The latter remains very similar to the original 1917 Tank design, hence these are some of the most highly coveted Cartier watches. 18k yellow gold quartz-powered versions can be purchased on the pre-owned market for around $10 000, whilst a manually powered model can cost around $34 000. Introductory models like the Tank Solo sell for around $2,600 for a quartz timepiece, or around an extra 1000 dollars for an automatic watch. If you’re looking at investing or selling a pink gold version, expect a selling price of around $5,000 for quartz and almost double that for a mechanically powered Solo.

Cartier Santos watches are pioneers of the air. The line of timepieces has been in production for over 100 years and was among some of the world’s first pilot’s watches when the collection originally launched. Its distinctive square shape case with instantly recognizable Roman numerals for the hour track are two characteristics that define this wristwatch. After Cartier produced the first Santos watch for Brazilian pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont, it was worn in his first public flight in 1906.

Due to its vibrant history, the Cartier Santos watch is widely collected. Its iconic look is characterized by a stainless steel case with a matching steel bracelet and exposed screws on the bezel and bracelet. In 2018, Cartier released a Santos watch that was powered by an in-house movement and sported softer lines and perfectly rounded edges that gave the timepiece an overall more fluid look. Collectors have invested in the Santos watch because it represents so much about Cartier’s heritage—success, determination, and perseverance. There are quartz options and automatic versions in this collection, as well as designs for ladies and men. You can pick up either a quartz or automatic Santos de Cartier watch on the pre-owned market, and it will cost you around $2,200, updated to 2023 prices. Alternatively, part with around $5,500, also updated to 2023 prices, and you can get a brand new one. Other standard models like the Santos Galbee sell for around $2,300 if pre-owned, but for a gold version, expect to pay around $2,000 more. However, it’s not unheard of for a watch of this kind to sell for over $22,000, reflecting 2023 values. Larger models like the Santos 100 can be purchased for under $7,000 from new and can be sold for around $3,600 on the pre-owned market, reflecting current market conditions.

If you’re buying a Cartier watch for the first time, there’s plenty of reasons to put your money into a timepiece from the Calibre de Cartier range. Some of these models feature complications like tourbillons for improving the accuracy of their in-house developed movements - others feature perpetual calendars for keeping on track of a busy schedule. These sporty watches showcase Cartier’s technique and exude a strong sense of elegance when worn, making them highly desirable for sporty gents, professional businessmen, and gadget-lovers. Simple two-handed models from the collection are an entry point to the collection. They retain their value incredibly well too, for instance, a model in used but good condition will sell for around 4000 dollars, whereas a brand-new model can be purchased for around 1.5k more. Bi-colour Calibre de Cartier watches with three hands sell for around 6700 USD pre-owned, or 8,200 USD in mint condition. Grand complications are understandably more valuable. Perpetual calendars, for instance, sell for up to 30,000 dollars.

The prowling panther symbol leads back to Cartier’s most influential director - Jeanne Toussaint, who created the iconic Panther ring for the company during the 1920s. The collection of Panthere watches created by Cartier pays tribute to her feline-inspired designs. They celebrate the symbol of the wildcat and since many enthusiasts are aware that the collection ceased production many years ago, they are now high in demand on the second-hand market, making for a sturdy investment. The line of timepieces includes distinctive round and rectangular-shaped models that are available in steel, gold or both. Elegant 5-link bracelets wrap around the wrist, creating an instantly recognizable and refined look. Some timepieces are showered in extravagant gemstones and dressed in precious metals like 18k pink gold, yellow gold, and black lacquered finishes. Panthere watches are also widely loved because they’re unisex. Used bi-color quartz watches in good condition begin at around 2000 USD whist brand new ones retail for around $4,100. Pre-owned gold versions with diamonds can be purchased for under $10,000 if you search wisely. For a new bi-color model with diamonds, however, expect to pay around $23-24,000. You can also look to part with this much cash if you’re planning on purchasing a mint condition Cartier Panthere watch in solid gold. Cartier’s diverse range of luxury wristwatches will always remain highly desirable amongst watch connoisseurs. It’s the company’s unique recipe to success (their unwavering attention to detail using supreme materials and their impeccable manufacture of in-house movements, tourbillons, and complications) that have gained them such a huge global following. Whether you’re a fan of the Tank, the racing-induced Drive de Cartier or the pilot inspired Santos watch, Cartier watches will always hold their value since each one is a prime example of the brand’s expert craftsmanship and horological know-how.

It's important to remember that there are great opportunities to buy Cartier watches at great price points. At full retail price only few Cartier hold their value. Historically the Cartier Tank and Santos gold models do fare well in value over time. Pre-owned Cartier offer even a greater opportunity to buy watches which will retail resale value and in most cases keep appreciating as linked to gold beside rarity and uniqueness. An important difference with modern Cartier: many new lines present a caseback in steel rather than gold like the vintage models reducing the overall gold in the watch. This is why the classic and vintage Cartier are resold at higher value: they have unique elegant design, more gold in them and the vintage look which gives them a higher value in the reselling market.

Many Cartier Santos have held their value better than other less popular. One stands out among many: the Cartier Santos Galbée 18kt Automatic - made famous by the iconic character Gordon Gekko portrayed by Michael Douglas in Wall Street. As of Septmeber 2023 a well maintained watch will fetch for $25,000 an increase of $6,000 when we originally wrote the article.

If you are looking to invest into a modern Santos remind that automatic watches tend to fare better overtime compared to quartz movement which tend to drop in value drastically in the short term.

Find out more about Cartier in our guides and a detailed review of Cartier Tank 1612. We have also covered the best Cartier with diamonds and the Cartier Tank released in 2021.

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